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Stories from Neah Bay

46 stories

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MAR 7, 1889Neah Bay, WA

The Night They Walked to an Indian Village: A Shipwreck Survivor’s Tale

After the steamer *Port Gordon* smashed against rocks near Destruction Island, four men survived a nightmare of broken lines and drowning comrades by building a raft from hatches—and then walking ten miles through the brush.

Disasters
Read the story: The Night They Walked to an Indian Village: A Shipwreck Survivor’s Tale
MAR 12, 1885Neah Bay, WA

The Neah Bay Sealing Conflict

A local captain alleges a corrupt scheme involving a government agent and a private trader to monopolize the sealing industry at the expense of Indigenous laborers.

“The agent says this to them openly, and the poor men are afraid to go, for most surely he will do it.”
Work & Pay
Read the story: The Neah Bay Sealing Conflict
APR 3, 1892Neah Bay, WA

The Ghostly Harvest of the North Pacific

A brutal accounting of how 19th-century pelagic sealers, operating out of Washington ports, pushed a species to the brink of extinction through industrial-scale slaughter.

“If Lord Salisbury could see one of these Canadian sealers thrust his gaff-hook into the carcass of a nursing female seal and drag the body over the gunwale into the boat... how quickly would he cry shame upon such beastly, barbarous butchery.”
Follow the Money
Read the story: The Ghostly Harvest of the North Pacific
NOV 2, 1861Neah Bay, Neah Bay, WA

A War Party Among the Makah

James G. Swan recounts the violent return of a Makah war party to Neah Bay after a retaliatory expedition against the Elwha people near Dungeness.

“There were no scalp locks dangling to a pole, but real human heads.”
Strange But True
Read the story: A War Party Among the Makah
FEB 14, 1863Neah Bay, WA

The Broken Promises of Washington Territory

James G. Swan argues that federal mismanagement and bureaucratic neglect are the true causes of unrest, urging the government to honor its treaty obligations to Indigenous nations.

“There is currently a balance of over $246,000 in the U.S. Treasury belonging to the Indian service in this Territory, lying useless while the country remains in excitement over Indian outrages caused by neglect.”
Exclusion & Resistance
Read the story: The Broken Promises of Washington Territory
DEC 13, 1893Neah Bay, Neah Bay, WA

The Makah Nation’s Fleet Challenges the Seal Hunters

With firearms banned, the Makah sealers of Neah Bay turn to traditional hunting methods, outmaneuvering white commercial competitors.

“This causes the Indians to adopt their old custom of hunting with spears, at which a large number of the tribe are adepts.”
Exclusion & Resistance
Read the story: The Makah Nation’s Fleet Challenges the Seal Hunters
MAY 24, 1880Neah Bay, WA

The Neah Bay Land Grab

A historic Seattle-area editorial exposes how federal officials and a powerful monopoly manipulated reservation boundaries to seize a lucrative trading post from a local merchant.

“The interests of the Government, the rights of citizens and the convenience and welfare of the Indians have been sacrificed to official greed and private speculation.”
Follow the Money
Read the story: The Neah Bay Land Grab
JUN 7, 1894Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

Makah Sealers Face Forfeiture

Federal authorities move to seize two schooners owned by Makah sealers for violating international sealing regulations off Cape Flattery.

“The schooners Puritan and C. C. Perkins, owned by Makah Indians of Neah Bay, have violated the provisions of the sealing regulations.”
Exclusion & Resistance
Read the story: Makah Sealers Face Forfeiture
JAN 2, 1895Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

Two Steamers Saluted Off Cape Flattery—Then Vanished Into the Storm

A schooner captain’s account places the missing Keweenaw and Montserrat together off Washington’s coast on a night of monstrous seas, just before both were lost.

“The steamers approached within speaking distance and after some talk between them both turned and went to sea, doubling the cape and passing out of sight forever.”
DisastersTrue Crime
Read the story: Two Steamers Saluted Off Cape Flattery—Then Vanished Into the Storm
APR 7, 1887Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

The Last Hours of the Bark El Dorado

A harrowing account of a merchant ship's destruction in a fierce gale off the Washington coast, as told by one of the few men to survive the wreckage.

“The sea then moderated gradually. At 2 p.m. one of the sailors died, from what appeared to be internal injuries... At half past six we buried him under the waves.”
Disasters
Read the story: The Last Hours of the Bark El Dorado
MAR 31, 1894Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

The Wreck of the Bark Archer

After a violent storm capsized their ship off the coast of Cape Flattery, the crew faced fire and rising seas in a desperate struggle for survival.

“The ship seemed also to be sinking, and it appeared to be a question only as to whether the crew would first be overcome by fire or water.”
Disasters
Read the story: The Wreck of the Bark Archer
JUN 26, 1883Neah Bay, WA

The Man Who Returned from the Grave

A shipwrecked man’s family burned his belongings and went into mourning, only to be shocked by his miraculous return.

“Their grief was changed to joy, however, when one morning the missing husband and father was descried in his canoe approaching, standing up and singing at the top of his voice.”
Work & PayDisasters
Read the story: The Man Who Returned from the Grave
FEB 5, 1876Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

The Pacific’s Lesson: Floating Decks and Real Sailors

A correspondent proposes turning steamer decks into life-rafts—and blames the wreck of the Pacific on owners who replaced seamen with freight handlers.

“No matter how well a vessel may be supplied with boats and other life-saving apparatus, it requires practical men to make proper use of them at the proper time.”
Work & PayDisasters
Read the story: The Pacific’s Lesson: Floating Decks and Real Sailors
JAN 20, 1877Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

The Ship That Tore Its Own Bow Off: A Seattle Coal Vessel Lost to the Gale

In January 1877, the 1,200-ton ship *Commodore* was driven ashore at Cape Flattery in a ferocious storm. The crew survived, but the vessel—owned by local Port Ludlow resident Arthur Phinney and valued at $20,000—was destroyed.

Disasters
Read the story: The Ship That Tore Its Own Bow Off: A Seattle Coal Vessel Lost to the Gale
FEB 5, 1891Neah Bay, WA

The Great Seal Controversy: Do Pups Swim or Sink?

Local mariners and traders challenge the prevailing scientific 'fables' about seal pup habits to protest federal regulation of North Pacific sealing.

“The ocean is the rightful inheritance of man. It is as free to all as the air we breathe, and congress has no more right to tax the sun than it has to tax the open air.”
Follow the Money
Read the story: The Great Seal Controversy: Do Pups Swim or Sink?
DEC 8, 1885Neah Bay, WA

The Neah Bay Standoff: A Clash of Court and Cabinet

A territorial judge, a stubborn Indian Agent, and an injunction gone wrong sparked a tense, potentially violent jurisdictional battle at Neah Bay.

“I exceedingly deprecate any conflict between the Judiciary and the Executive. Plaintiff's right appears to be seriously suffering by every day's delay. The Court will insist that its lawful orders be obeyed.”
City Hall
Read the story: The Neah Bay Standoff: A Clash of Court and Cabinet
DEC 13, 1885Makah Indian Reservation, Neah Bay, WA

The Neah Bay Standoff: A Battle over Tribal Land Sovereignty

When the government sent an Indian agent to clear traders off the Makah Reservation, a local legal battle exposed the deep friction between federal authority and corporate interests.

“I never had a desire to treat the Court with contempt, but my orders from the Commissioner were plain, and I knew that in obeying them the Department would stand between me and him.”
Exclusion & Resistance
Read the story: The Neah Bay Standoff: A Battle over Tribal Land Sovereignty
JUL 20, 1861Neah Bay, WA

Life on the Edge of the World: A Dispatch from Tatoosh Island

A rare 1861 account of the desolate, storm-battered lives of lighthouse keepers and their interactions with the Makah people at the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

“Little dreams the mariner, whose courage rises as he sees its friendly glow, of the comfortless position of those who make his approach to land safe in the gloom of night.”
Strange But True
Read the story: Life on the Edge of the World: A Dispatch from Tatoosh Island
SEP 4, 1883Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

A Whale Hunt off Cape Flattery

Captain Gavin of the steamer Thornton reports a vivid, bloody encounter between Indigenous hunters and a whale.

“What with the yells of the Indians, the big whale enveloped with bladders, and the water all around covered with blood, made up an exciting scene.”
Strange But True
Read the story: A Whale Hunt off Cape Flattery
JAN 19, 1877Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

Nineteen Sailors Survive a Wreck Off Cape Flattery

The ship Commodore struck near Neah Bay in 1877, but its entire crew made it ashore, found shelter with a local family, and was ferried back to Port Townsend.

“They were kindly received and hospitably entertained by Mr. Lannee and family until Friday morning, when they were taken on board the steamer Tacoma and brought to this city.”
Disasters
Read the story: Nineteen Sailors Survive a Wreck Off Cape Flattery
MAR 16, 1877Neah Bay, WA

Nine Good Men Never Came Home From the Seal Grounds

A hurricane off Cape Flattery swallows three canoes full of the strongest seal hunters of the tribe, all in the perilous work of gathering furs.

“Thus nine of the strongest and best men of the tribe have lost their lives in their attempts to procure furs with which to decorate and clothe mankind.”
Work & Pay
Read the story: Nine Good Men Never Came Home From the Seal Grounds
JAN 29, 1891Neah Bay, WA

The Seal Pup Wars: A Local Naturalist vs. The Smithsonian’s ‘Sense-Keeper’

James G. Swan, a long-time Neah Bay resident and customs inspector, challenges Henry W. Elliott’s decades-old claim that newborn fur seal pups sink like stones, offering eyewitness testimony from Captain Elijah McAlmond that they swim.

Scandal
Read the story: The Seal Pup Wars: A Local Naturalist vs. The Smithsonian’s ‘Sense-Keeper’
NOV 24, 1885Neah Bay, WA

The Sheriff vs. The Reservation Agent: A Neah Bay Standoff

When a federal agent refused to obey a district court order, a deputy sheriff took a midnight steamer to enforce the law—only to be met with a threat of the guardhouse.

“The Colonel poked his head out of the window and asked what was wanted. The deputy sheriff commanded him, in the name of the United States, to get out and open the store. The Colonel yelled back that he’d be hanged if he would.”
City Hall
Read the story: The Sheriff vs. The Reservation Agent: A Neah Bay Standoff
DEC 8, 1886Neah Bay, WA

The Lighthouse Keeper’s Rain-Soaked Exile

A desperate account of life on Tatoosh Island, where the constant thunder of the foghorn and relentless rainfall drove a keeper to the brink.

“Every day and every night that horrible sound flooded my being with horror until all the other miseries of that life were obliterated by the presence of this supreme torture.”
Work & PayStrange But True
Read the story: The Lighthouse Keeper’s Rain-Soaked Exile
JUN 9, 1894Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

U.S. Cutter Seizes Poaching Schooners off Cape Flattery

Defying a violent storm, the U.S. revenue cutter 'Grant' hunts down two schooners accused of illegal seal hunting in forbidden waters.

“The hunt, though a silent hunt, was anything but quiet, for the waves and the wind were making things pretty lively for all on board.”
Follow the Money
Read the story: U.S. Cutter Seizes Poaching Schooners off Cape Flattery
DEC 7, 1861Neah Bay, WA

The Bold Navigator and the Tatoosh Island Light-Keeper

A maritime dispute over a salvaged anchor reveals the shady side-hustles of a government lighthouse official.

“This man, like an old fish-hawk or carrion-crow, perches himself in his eyrie on Tatooche Island, watching every opportunity to make a descent on the adjacent coast.”
Follow the MoneyStrange But True
Read the story: The Bold Navigator and the Tatoosh Island Light-Keeper
JAN 1, 1891Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

The Uncharted Riches of the Deep Sea

In 1891, visionary fisheries expert James G. Swan argued that Washington's future wealth wasn't just in timber, but in the massive, untapped halibut and cod banks off the coast.

“The city of Gloucester, one of the richest cities of its size in the Union, was built almost entirely from the profits made from the mackerel, cod and halibut of the Atlantic. We have all these elements of wealth in our waters.”
Follow the Money
Read the story: The Uncharted Riches of the Deep Sea
FEB 3, 1883Neah Bay, WA

A Broken-Down Mailboat Left Clallam County Cut Off

For months, the steamer on the Neah Bay route ran late, broke down, and at least once used a craft known to be unsafe. The Post-Intelligencer wanted the contract revoked.

“Almost the only communication these people have with other parts of the country is by mail steamer, and when that fails they virtually have no communication at all.”
City Hall
Read the story: A Broken-Down Mailboat Left Clallam County Cut Off
JAN 9, 1895Neah Bay, WA

A Timber From the Lost Collier: Wreckage of the Montserrat Comes Ashore at Cape Flattery

Six feet of painted stanchion, dragged from the sea off Tatoosh Island, convinces veteran mariners that the missing coal ship Montserrat has finally given up a piece of herself.

“The timber at the ends showed that great force had been used to wrench it away from its fastenings.”
DisastersTrue Crime
Read the story: A Timber From the Lost Collier: Wreckage of the Montserrat Comes Ashore at Cape Flattery
SEP 28, 1861Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

The Shipwreck of the Persevere

A vessel founders near Cape Flattery, leading to a precarious encounter with local tribes and a recovery effort by Indian Agent H.A. Webster.

“They then made for land, and reached it in safety about four miles below Flattery rocks. Here the Indians took their boat, and all the things they had.”
Disasters
Read the story: The Shipwreck of the Persevere
JAN 1, 1895Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

A Battered Coal Ship and a Ghostly White Boat Off Cape Flattery

The overdue J.B. Brown limps into San Francisco after a storm off the Columbia, while a swamped ship's boat sighted off Washington's coast deepens the mystery of missing steamers.

“At one time it was thought unlikely that the ship would ever reach port.”
DisastersTrue Crime
Read the story: A Battered Coal Ship and a Ghostly White Boat Off Cape Flattery
MAY 14, 1882Cape Flattery, Neah Bay, WA

The Great Stink of 1882

When Makah schoolgirls in Neah Bay proved to their matron that rotting whale blubber smelled better than imported Limburger cheese.

“They thought that old rotten Limburger cheese smelled worse than rotten whale blubber, and there are many white persons who will agree with them.”
Strange But True
Read the story: The Great Stink of 1882
JUL 13, 1861Neah Bay, WA

The Beacon at the Edge of the World

A rare dispatch from the remote Tatoosh Island lighthouse reveals the technical marvel of the Fresnel lens and the isolation of the keepers guarding the Pacific entrance.

“Its friendly invitations, and still more friendly warnings, as in faithful steadfastness, it shines out over the varying phases of the deep, give to it almost a human and vital interest.”
Strange But True
Read the story: The Beacon at the Edge of the World
NOV 10, 1876Neah Bay, WA

A Potlatch at Neah Bay: Blankets, Money, and a Makah Celebration

A newspaper correspondent visits a Makah potlatch and finds hundreds gathered, a wealthy widow, and gifts of cash and blankets distributed to friends and relations.

“Several hundred dollars in cash and more blankets than one could shake a stick at were given away.”
Strange But True
Read the story: A Potlatch at Neah Bay: Blankets, Money, and a Makah Celebration
MAR 28, 1894Neah Bay, WA

Cape Flattery Telegraph Line Fails

The expensive underwater cable connecting the mainland to Tatoosh Island has snapped, and the government may abandon it rather than foot the repair bill.

“Should it prove to be in deep water the cable will very likely be abandoned, as it would hardly pay to repair it.”
Follow the MoneyDisasters
Read the story: Cape Flattery Telegraph Line Fails