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She Rode 2,000 Miles from Wisconsin to Seattle — Alone, in a Dress

Emma Larson, a 31-year-old Seattle woman, crossed the continent on horseback with only her mare Kitty for company, sleeping under the stars and going days at a stretch on nothing but water.

The story, cleaned up

A cleaned-up reading of the newspaper page: spelling and layout repaired, one story lifted off a crowded page. It follows the original closely but it is not a transcription. The original page is below; read it if a detail matters.

About three weeks ago a young woman rode into this city on horseback, who had just completed a ride of two thousand miles across the continent, and who announced her determination to go from here on horseback to California — an undertaking which, however, she subsequently concluded to forego, owing to the near approach of winter, taking the steamer instead. The lady was reported all along the route followed by her, as readers of this paper will remember. The latest we have from her is the following, from the San Francisco Chronicle of the 13th instant.

There arrived in this city on Sunday night a young woman from Seattle who has just successfully completed a tour across the plains on horseback. The heroine of the ride is Miss Emma Larson, 31 years old, American by birth and of Scandinavian descent. Her hair is flaxen colored, her eyes are gray, she is very firmly built, and presents an appearance of health and strength.

The following is the story of her travels, as detailed by her to a Chronicle reporter:

"I formerly resided in California, but some years ago removed with my folks to Green Lake county, Wisconsin. I always had a desire to revisit this State and once more inhale the refreshing air of the Golden West. My father presented me with a mare — Kitty is her name. She'll be eight years old this spring, and I told my relatives on several occasions that Kitty and I were going to take a trip to California, but they only laughed at me. They thought that I would never attempt to cross the plains, but they were mistaken, for Kitty and I and a yearling colt left Wisconsin on the 24th of last April. I was always fond of riding."

"What outfit did you have with you?" asked the reporter.

"Well, I only took Kitty and the colt, an oil-coat, a small buffalo robe, two saddle blankets and a small sum of money. When I started out I had a regular Texas saddle, with two cinches on it, but it was too hard and heavy, so at the first opportunity I traded it off for a Chicago saddle."

"What was your idea in setting out on the expedition?"

"The novelty and romance of the trip and a desire to see the country," replied the transcontinental equestrienne.

"Did the trip meet all your expectations?"

"Well, it more than met them in one way."

"How was that?"

"In starvation and hardship. For about 300 miles on one part of the road — it was near Soda Springs, in Idaho — I did not see a ranch, and for three days and nights I had nothing to live upon but water. This was the worst part of the trip. There may have been ranches some distance from the road, but I never left the trail."

"But how did you find your way?" asked the reporter. "Were you not afraid of getting lost?"

"No. I asked the road from station to station. I followed the railroad line to Rollins and then to Green river, thence to Soda Springs and from there to Boise City; from Boise City to Baker City and thence to John Day's bridge, across John Day's river into Idaho; then I crossed Snake river and rode on to Pendleton, and from there I arrived at Portland about October 10th. I would have ridden from Portland here but for the lateness of the season and the scarcity of food on the road."

"What was your method of traveling?"

"I generally started at daylight and rode until eleven o'clock, and then rested until 1 or 2 o'clock in the afternoon. At this time it was cooler and I again started out and rode until I would strike good feed for Kitty, or if I could not find it I would ride until sunset. I averaged about twenty-five miles a day, but my biggest day's journey was sixty-three miles, and that was on the Laramie plains. No, I never met any more ferocious animals than deer or antelope. The whole journey was pleasant and a most enjoyable one. I saw no Indians to amount to anything, but one day I rode with a band of fifty from Big Sandusky to the Green river."

"Did you have fun with the cowboys?"

"Yes, I met plenty of cowboys. They had their sport with me, but were always kind. On one occasion they offered to help me into the saddle. They would lift me up on one side and let me drop off on the other. They only wanted to have a little fun with me."

"Did you carry much money with you?"

"No, I never had more than $10 or $15 at a time. My sister forwarded the money to me at various points along the road. I never paid any toll, and my lodgings were never expensive. Sometimes I stopped at the ranches along the way, but I preferred to sleep on the prairie or on the mountain side. With my robes drawn around me and no other covering overhead but the blue vaulted sky and its twinkling stars, I was content. The night air was cool and invigorating, and the silence around was very solemn and impressive. There was nothing to disturb me as I lay there peacefully slumbering. The birds singing and chirping in the trees and brush would wake me in the morning, and I would immediately arise and away on my journey. During the day all was quiet. The only sound to break the stillness was the birds. Occasionally a startled hare or rabbit would run across the path, and perhaps that would be the last sign of moving life you would see for hours."

"Did you not feel the continual riding in the saddle wearisome?"

"No. The Chicago saddle I got in the city suited me to the manner it was intended for. When I was traveling on the prairie or in the forest, or in fact any distance out of a town or city, I straddled the saddle like a man. Of course I rode this way with a dress on, for I wore nothing but a dress during the whole trip. When I neared a settlement I changed my style and rode as if on a side saddle."

"Did the mare hold out well?"

"Kitty stood the trip first-rate, and she is now luxuriating and camping in the clover in Washington Territory, and she deserves it. Yes, my father is living and approves of the expedition."

"How do you like San Francisco?"

"I don't like San Francisco at all. There is too much noise and confusion, and I greatly prefer the quietude and calmness of the plains. On the plains everything is quiet and orderly. You have no one to disturb you and can do just as you please."

"When do you intend returning home?"

"I shall leave in the course of the year and will follow the line of the railroad. Everything will be fresh and green then. I expect that the trip will be much more pleasant. The prairies and forests will present a more romantic picture clothed in their garb of early green, and I think the journey will be most enjoyable."

Miss Larson is wonderfully unharmed by her exposure. She appears to be hale and hearty and not afraid to take the return trip. She speaks of the mare, Kitty, with great enthusiasm, and says she would not part with her. Her family has arrived by rail from Wisconsin. She prefers to come by rail, and does not show the same love and spirit of adventure that Emma does. Miss Larson says the entire expense of the trip did not amount to $100.

“I wore nothing but a dress during the whole trip. When I neared a settlement I changed my style and rode as if on a side saddle.”

— Printed in Seattle Daily Post-Intelligencer (Seattle, W.T. [Wash.]) 1881-1888, 1883
Then · 1883143 years apartNow · 2026

Emma Larson's 2,000-mile solo ride reads like today's thru-hikers and long-distance cyclists chasing the romance of the open trail. Her habit of riding astride in a dress, switching to sidesaddle only when a town came into view, shows a woman navigating the era's rules about how a lady should travel — bending them without breaking them. The paper ran it as a celebrity update, a reminder that the nineteenth-century press could turn a Seattle woman's endurance into popular spectacle.

The original page

Seattle Daily Post-Intelligencer (Seattle, W.T. [Wash.]) 1881-1888, 1883-11-25. Library of Congress, Chronicling America.

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About this story

From
Seattle Daily Post-Intelligencer (Seattle, W.T. [Wash.]) 1881-1888, NOV 25, 1883, Page 2
Rights
Public domain
Place
47.60323, -122.33028 · placed automatically
The paper in the Library of Congress catalog ↗