Seattle's Bid to Be the Liverpool of America

Seattle Letter in New York Tribune.

The recent destructive landslide in Tacoma harbor, in which fifteen acres of land and 2,000,000 cubic yards of earth were dumped into the bay, calls attention to needed harbor improvements on Puget Sound. While in one sense the Sound is one vast harbor in itself, a land-locked sea indented with hundreds of bays and inlets, there are few of these which afford perfect anchorage. The great range of the tides, the depth of the water, the peculiar topographical and geological conditions of the shores are not found elsewhere on the continent. In the case of Tacoma, the landslide, while it came without warning and was utterly unexpected, was not an unprecedented occurrence. Some years ago a fifteen-acre tract of land in this city slid 100 feet down the hill in the course of a year; the same thing on a large scale has happened in Seattle. It is conceded many thousands of dollars will have to be spent before either of these two cities have the harbor facilities their business requires. The river and harbor appropriations in this state have so far been pitifully small, owing partly to Washington's recent admission to the Union and the necessity of expensive surveys in advance of work, and partly to the lack of appreciation in the East of the actual growth and development of the Sound country.

The last Congress, however, voted something over $170,000 to the state and, moreover, set the seal of its approval to a project which, when carried out, will create at Puget Sound not only one of the finest, but one of the most remarkable harbors in the world. This is the ship canal which is to unite the Sound at Seattle with Lake Washington, a body of clear, fresh water, twenty miles long, about three miles wide and from 100 to 500 feet deep. It forms the eastern boundary of the city of Seattle and is less than two miles from the Sound along the proposed route of the canal. Between the lakes and the Sound lies a smaller lake, connected with the Sound by a shallow stream and with Lake Washington by a small canal used for the passage of sawlogs. It will be seen that the natural conditions are most favorable for the enterprise.

The subjoined description is taken from a report made in 1891 by Brig. Gen. Thomas Lincoln Casey, chief of engineers, to Acting Secretary of War J. A. Grant:

'The proposed route and project for a canal connecting Lake Washington with Puget Sound contemplates constructing a canal 2,600 feet long, eighty feet wide at the bottom and 158 feet wide at the water line, and twenty-six feet deep through the portage between Union Bay in Lake Washington and Lake Union, with a masonry lock 400 feet long, fifty feet wide and twenty-six feet deep over sill, and with a lift of about seven and one-half feet; dredging channels to connect this canal with water in Lake Washington and across Lake Union; and constructing a canal 1,700 feet long, eighty feet wide at the bottom and 160 feet wide at the water line, and about twenty-six feet deep, connecting Lake Union along its outlet with the head of Salmon Bay. From the head of Salmon Bay to Puget Sound two routes are considered. One by way of Shilshole Bay and Salmon Bay, with a lock near the Sound 400 feet long, fifty feet wide and sixteen and six-tenths feet deep over sill at extreme low tide; the other by way of Smith's Cove and a canal constructed across the neck of land between the head of Salmon Bay and Smith's Cove, with a lock similar to that projected for Shilshole Bay. The construction of a uniform formation of channel through the shoals at the outlet of the lake is also contemplated.

The estimated cost of the proposed canal by the two routes, not including damages for lands submersed, is as follows: Shilshole Bay route, $2,900,000; Smith's Cove route, $3,500,000. The Shilshole Bay route costs $500,000 less than that by Smith's Cove. On the other hand, the latter route possesses advantages, in that its entrance is in the harbor of Seattle, whereas the entrance of the other is five and one-half miles distant; and in the Smith's Cove entrance and lock are less exposed to bombardment by an enemy's fleet. For these reasons the Smith's Cove route is to be preferred.'

In each of the proposed routes vessels will pass from Puget Sound to the bay through a masonry lock 400 feet long, fifty feet wide, with a lift varying according to the stage of the tide. The depth of water at extreme low tide will be sixteen and six-tenths feet; at lowest high tide thirty-six feet. So there will always be two occasions in each twenty-four hours when vessels of twenty-six feet draught may pass through the locks. There will be no time when vessels of sixteen feet draught may not pass. Of course, larger commercial demands will require arrangements, but the sill can be lowered at no great increase of cost.

The largest steamers now on the Sound have no more than 300 feet length of keel, from 45 to 50 feet beam and twenty-three feet draught. Few sailing vessels have more than twenty-six feet draught. From Salmon Bay vessels will have a channel from 400 to 500 feet wide. With an additional area of 1,000 acres, which can be brought to the same depth at moderate expense, Lake Union will have 400 acres of the same depth, which area can be largely increased. Lake Washington contains more than 2,200 acres, with an average depth of over 200 feet. The first two alone nearly equal the area of the London docks, and can be made to equal Liverpool's. To the east of Lake Washington, separated by a high ridge of land, lies another fresh water lake, about seven and one-half miles long, called Lake Sammamish. The last survey included estimates for a canal between these two lakes, should there ever be a demand for the additional space.

The idea of the canal is at least as old as the city of Seattle. It was the dream of the earliest pioneers, and has been hoped for and constantly talked of ever since. The attention of the government was first directed to the scheme as the means of creating an unexcelled naval station; for it was early perceived that Puget Sound must one day be the location of extensive navy yards. In 1853 Gen. George B. McClellan made a survey of this country, and in his report to the war department strongly recommended the building of the canal for naval uses. Recommendations have since been made to Congress and to the departments by Maj. G. Elliot, Gen. B. S. Alexander, Capt. Charles F. Powell, Gen. Nelson A. Miles and others. In 1870 Gen. Alexander made a careful study of the project and surveyed several possible routes. The report to Maj.-Gen. A. A. Humphreys, chief of engineers, calls attention to the fact that 'there are only three places on the Pacific coast of the United States where navy yards or navy establishments may be located where they can be made secure. One of these is at San Francisco, one at San Diego and one is in the waters of Puget Sound.' He then described Seattle harbor as being most favorably situated, but not capable of such perfect security as a naval station with its stores should be: 'It will do very well as an outer harbor, and just east of it is a large fresh water lake which never freezes in winter. If it were connected with Seattle harbor by a natural canal of sufficient depth the two together would furnish us with an admirable position for a naval depot, with almost every requirement that could be desired. But there being no such natural channel the question arises: Can we make an artificial one within reasonable limits of expense?' Later in the report Gen. Alexander says: 'If there were such a chance to make a great naval depot so entirely secure, with so many advantages of climate, of coal, timber and fresh water free from ice, at any suitable point along the middle of the Atlantic front or even of the Gulf states, I do not imagine that there would be much hesitation on the subject. The work would probably be started at once. But situated as this harbor is, on one flank of the Pacific front of the United States, in a country yet in its infancy as regards population and resources, the case is different.'

The famous dry docks at Port Orchard, Wash., are sixteen miles southwest of Seattle. The officer in command, Lieut. A. R. Wycoff, is an enthusiastic advocate of the fresh water harbor as a rendezvous and coaling station, and, in time of peace, a convenient harbor where vessels can lie at anchor ready for action. The future navy of the United States will undoubtedly consist largely of coast defense vessels like the Monterey. Of these a good half will be retained in Pacific waters. Puget Sound would be extremely difficult to defend in time of war. According to expert opinion there are only three points where adequate land fortifications could be erected, and they would be inefficient except in clear weather; during fogs or under cover of smoke vessels could easily slip into the Sound. The swift ebbing of the tides and the unusual depth of water renders submarine mines and torpedoes impracticable. Nothing except the presence of coast defense vessels would suffice. A large body of fresh water where these vessels, when not in commission, can be cared for and kept free from barnacles as well as deterioration from rust, will be of immense advantage to the navy.

But greater still will be the benefit to commerce. The unique advantages of a great fresh water harbor where vessels can lie at anchor undisturbed by tides and where all marine accretions can be gotten rid of without the delay and expense of docking will unquestionably attract a large amount of foreign shipping. All iron and steel bottomed vessels are subject to troublesome marine growths, barnacles, mussels and sea grass, and so loaded do they become during long voyages that speed is reduced sometimes one-half. Fresh water is so fatal to these growths that after a few days' exposure they either drop off or become loose enough to be readily removed by scraping. One of the most favorable features of the proposed Nicaragua canal is the fact that the route includes a fresh water lake, where passing ships may rid themselves of their unwelcome accretions. Another attraction the new harbor will present is the coal depots of the state. There are half a dozen mines now in operation at the water's edge, among them the well-known Newcastle, Black Diamond, Franklin and Gilman mines. The cost of coal will be materially lessened by improved harbor facilities. At present it has to be shipped by rail to the bunkers in Elliott Bay (Seattle harbor), and there loaded for export. In addition to the delay the coal companies are handicapped by the expense of maintaining these bunkers. In the Sound at Seattle there is an average range of eleven feet and an extreme range of eighteen feet. This oscillation of level is very noticeable and often causes delays. Far greater, however, is the prevalence everywhere in Pacific waters of the teredo, that dangerous and destructive ship-worm, whose appetite for wooden structures and piling is the despair of shippers. The term of life of a pile in the Sound is nine months, although they are not uncommonly destroyed in half that time. As piles everywhere cost $10 or $12, it will be seen how great is the expense of maintaining the coal bunkers. To render them permanent, each has to be treated with creosote or copper, either of which processes greatly increases the cost. In fresh water piling lasts almost indefinitely, and does not require treatment. Thus, with the improved facilities for loading, will bring the price of Washington coal over a large stretch of new country, and will open markets for its products.

The iron industry of the Pacific coast is in a very backward state. The reason is obvious. Ships carrying grain to Europe bring back pig iron as ballast cheaper than it can be manufactured here. Yet within fifty miles of Lake Washington are some of the best Bessemer iron deposits in the world, and there is not a state in the Union that has richer coal mines than Washington. The government commission appointed in 1890 to establish steel gun factories reported that except for the high cost of fuel, Puget Sound offered a more favorable location for the plant than any place in the United States.

Thus, while the benefit to the Sound country will be immense, the national importance of the ship canal must not be underestimated. An enormous trade from Australia, Japan, China, India and South America is sweeping this way and should be captured by the United States instead of Canada. Our neighbors to the north are sparing no expense to make perfect their transcontinental railway facilities, and will soon be prepared to contest with our ocean trade. A fresh water harbor which shall be at the same time a cheap and easy coaling station would attract hundreds of vessels to Puget Sound, even if it were out of the way, which, as a matter of fact, it is not. The distance from Liverpool to Shanghai, via Puget Sound, is 8,000 miles; from Liverpool to Shanghai direct is 11,730. Japan, Australia and Oceania lie much nearer to the Pacific coast than to London or Liverpool.

The city of Seattle is naturally much excited over the prospect, and expects to become the Liverpool of America within the next twenty years. Seattle is the largest city in the state; next to Portland it is the largest in the Northwest. It is built on the eastern shore of the Sound, about half way between the upper end and the straits of San Juan de Fuca, which lead into the Pacific. The first settlement was made in 1852, but until ten years ago it was a straggling village, surrounded by impenetrable forests and with stretches of deep woods between its neighborhoods. The first incident in its history which drew the attention of outsiders to the growing town was the great fire of 1889, when on a June afternoon, sixty-five acres, comprising the entire business quarter, were swept away. The loss was over $14,000,000. Rebuilding commenced next day on a much larger scale, and today the business streets are lined with seven and eight story modern structures of brick and stone.

At the time of the fire the population was 22,000. A conservative estimate places the present population at 65,000. The city has Eastern communication by four transcontinental lines, and is the terminus of the Great Northern and the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern. The Burlington & Missouri is pushing rapidly toward Seattle, and has already reached a junction with the Northern Pacific at Billings, Mont. It is the headquarters of over 100 freight, towing and passenger steamers, including several lines to San Francisco, Alaska and British Columbia, besides many local lines. It has the state university, the land office, custom house, the local office of hulls and boilers, the weather bureau, signal service and geological survey. The town is built on a series of steep hills, which rise, amphitheatre-like, from the shores of Elliott Bay. A more beautiful location could not be imagined, but it has certain disadvantages. The most serious one is the lack of level building ground adjacent to deep water wharfage. There is literally not room for the railroads to enter the city. The harbor is too deep for good anchorage, vessels having to tie up to buoys or at private wharves.

The need of the canal is immediate, and every effort is being made to hasten its completion. The last Congress appropriated $25,000 as a starter, with a promise of much larger sums. This first appropriation cannot be expended until the right of way has been secured free of cost to the government, and this condition Seattle has engaged to fulfill. Preliminary surveys are now being made, and the purchase of the right of way will undoubtedly follow without delay or difficulty.