The Long Walk Home: A Traveler’s Ordeal on the Skagit River

Trip from Seattle—Down the Sound.

Many people living in the Snohomish County are very indifferent to the means of travel going to and from places situated a little out of the main routes of travel, while to determine the regular line of the Sound, as well as the general convenience of local roads makes certain statements of great interest to them. The reason is without any apology we lay before our readers an account of a trip taken by me in 1875-1876 along the Skagit and Stillaguamish Flats, as well as a description of places there found.

The heavy timber here at the Snohomish region indicates an exceedingly difficult journey from point to point with anything convenient and steamboat access. Few people have immediate means of conveyance. Especially is this true in the lower region, where the rivers are often the only habitations and a real escape during the early settlement.

On this trip I tried most of the routes of travel in the area. Leaving Seattle Sunday, March 27, 1876, near noon in company with Capt. H. A. Smith, I came at 4:00 PM to the steamer 'Zephyr' for Port Madison. There walked new the trail to Tulalip. At Tulalip Harbor boarded 'Lilly.' This boat is the regular mail boat from Seattle to Skagit, stopping at Mukilteo, Tulalip, Coupeville, Friday, La Conner, and some towns of other limits near the route.

The 'Lilly' is little an old side-wheel steamer, has done a great deal of service, and is quite slow. The urging the skill and courtesy of her officers she gives much better satisfaction than many a newer and swifter craft. Her master Capt. Beauman universally bears the name of being a careful, able, and experienced officer, as well as a courteous, navigating gentleman.

After leaving Tulalip Harbor, we turned northward across the Sound... reaching Coupeville on Whidbey's Island, then to La Conner. The mill property is now in bankruptcy. In two years we are informed on the first of April 1876, after the sale, new hands will take up everything.

This is the nearest point of this steamer's route to the Stillaguamish River, some eight miles distant; passengers, mail and freight having to be sent to that river by a small boat. We lay at La Conner until near morning, then started for La Conner... The channel of this slough is shallow, narrow and very difficult to follow... We stuck fast in the mud... The steamer had to stay there until Wednesday morning.

The passengers going to La Conner through three-fourths of a mile distant, in small boats. Reaching there about eight o'clock A.M. of Tuesday, March 28th. La Conner is the business center for the extensive agricultural region known as Swinomish Flats.

Tuesday afternoon left La Conner in company with D. E. Gage... for the forks of the Skagit River... The wind blew no strong, the tide bad and did not venture up until the next day... When within two miles of the Forks we got out at the canoe, walking the rest of the way. At 9 a.m. mud, stepped over night at Mr. Gage's place. Next day hauled up to Skagit Junction... I also a number of men, whom he was aiding in removing the Skagit Jam; after viewing the upper and lower jam, and stopping over night with friend Campbell, returned to Skagit City.

From there down the south fork of the Skagit to Mr. Link's premises three miles. Thence by Lemar, two miles, or a Swahish and his Indian taking me to the Stillaguamish Flat... This tract of timbered land forms the garden spot of Snohomish County. I stopped in this vicinity until Saturday afternoon April 1st, 1876.

Saturday afternoon I went up the river with George Harding by boat, to Gardner Goodrich's place, three miles above Centreville. After having a social chat with Mr. Goodrich who accompanied me up the river a piece, I walked as far as Mr. Perkins' place, stopping at the residence of Willard Sly. This gentleman went with me to Perkins' place and from there on the county road narrow to Hatt's Slough. After crossing the Skagit I stopped over night at the residence of James Dunn... The next morning I left for Tulalip, a good way 'Skagit Junction,' taking me by canoe.

The 'Zephyr' having taken her last trip as I reached the up... leaving me to wait the boat in provoking night at her steaming up the river, after I had come over thirteen miles to catch her. I concluded however it was an effort to give up. Seeing an Indian in his canoe a distance from where, I cried 'Canoe! Canoe!' to him. He came assist, I went aboard of his canoe, and with Will paddled up to Lowell, to find my canoe gone from there, so had to walk to Snohomish City, reaching here in time to attend the religious service held by my friend Rev. J. H. Thompson at Olympia, W.T., coming nearly thirty miles, walking about ten miles, having by canoe.

The weather was so calm, and the sky cloudy that the sun would not dazzle my eyes; therefore I read.