The Loggers Who Built a Town: How an Indian Settlement Thrived on the Banks of Port Discovery

Living at Port Discovery, not long since, Mr. Wm. Webb met Mr. William D. Daly, who had been our traveling salesman for Snohomish receiving company, to meet company him in Dungeness; this courteous invitation was very gratefully accepted.

The Discovery mill and Irving situated near a similar situation at the mouth of the river, constantly employed on the industry, keeping track of the flow of work, supply and quality of logs offered for sale, 62c. This tender man has attended to all this class of business for this company for some years past, in such a manner as to fully justify the confidence reposed in him by the company, as well as to secure the friendship and esteem of all with whom he transacts his extensive business.

This time, Mr. D. was about taking some supplies to the company's logging camps, followed a few miles this side of Dungeness. Leaving about the middle of the current, with a fair wind and tide, in about four hours we reached the rail way of the logging camp, some thirty-three miles from Discovery, by about six from Dungeness. For some time past, logs have been loaded profitably by means of trucks, over a logging railway, in a manner similar to that used by Blackman Bros of this place.

At the place where this road terminates on the bench, is situated quite an extensive settlement of civilized Indians who, seven years ago, purchased at Mr. D., this tract of land, to improve and cultivate. The Mill Company, at the time of sale, reserving to themselves the right of way, for logging purposes, for a number of years. These Indians have cleared the ground, supported themselves by their own labor, chiefly in raising vegetables, etc., and put up buildings, many of which could compare well with the improvements made by white settlers.

Leaving Mr. D. to attend to his business, we went up the beach towards the town of Dungeness, soon coming across the Rev. Chas. McDermoth, who for several months past, has been teaching school and preaching at that place. This gentleman placed us under many obligations by 'taking us acquainted with a large number of people there; going with us over a large portion of the settlement, and rendering every assistance in his power.' His home is in Seattle, to which place he was then about returning.

The walk towards Dungeness was, part of the way, along a beautiful sand and gravelly beach, then through fertile, cultivated fields to the town of Dungeness, making the acquaintance on the way at A. U. Davis, I. P. Merchant, A. Henderson, Capt. E. H. McAlmond, besides Geo. Eutriekeu, who came up from Discovery with train the canoe. At the town we found Mr. F. A. Bartlett, for a number of years a resident of this county, at one time a business partner of Mr. M. McNamara, at Quilcene. He is now the postmaster, as well as County Auditor of Clallam County. His brother C. C. Bartlett, owns the principal store, and the hotel building. Mr. F. A. Bartlett assisting him in the management of the store.

Here we had a very pleasant time, also met Mr. Appleby, who formerly worked on the river, and who left here some months ago to work there. On leaving Snohomish, he subscribed and paid for the Sun, so we found these gentlemen well informed on our work, and ready to extend to us every assistance in their power. By their assistance, and the courteous attentions of Mr. McDermoth, and Capt. McAlmond, we not only acquired a large amount of information in a very short space of time, but also secured a liberal addition to the support for the Sun. Another old time resident of Snohomish, is doing business in that town, Capt. C. N. Levitt, who was connected with this river some sixteen or more years ago. He made numerous inquiries concerning nearly all of our first settlers. Elliot Cline is one of the leading citizens of the place, whose family we visited.

At Mr. Davis' place, we saw his stock. He is making quite an effort to improve the quality of milk cows for dairy purposes, introducing the Jersey stock, considered the best of any for this purpose. His full blood Jersey bull being a fine animal, which he purchased at a low price. Many of our farmers would do well to secure some of his calves which he will sell very reasonably.

Capt. McAlmond is one of the oldest and most enterprising workers of that region. He is now engaged building a vessel for the United States Government, 'to receive the immense number of beautiful farm residences in the Territory.' The culture and good taste displayed by his wife and daughter in adorning his beautiful home, makes it visit there one of the pleasant spots of life.

Dungeness derived its name from early English navigators who thought that the numerous shoals and rocks around its harbor had a resemblance to the Dungeness of the British Islands. Its harbor is formed by a long sand spit extending out into the straits; at the end of which is situated the light house. The harbor is easily entered with ships drawing less than ten feet of water; by those who know the channel.

Extending westward from Port Townsend there are a succession of bays and harbors as you go down the straits; first, Port Discovery bay, then Squim Bay, then Dungeness harbor. The principal below this point being Port Angeles, Skagit river settlement, and Neah Bay.

Dungeness is the natural outlet for a tract of country extending from Sequim Bay to Cape Flattery, Anacortes being some twenty-five miles from the straits. The fertile prairie land forming a strip averaging about five miles wide, before the foothills are reached. There is a great deal of natural prairie, some marsh, while most of the land is low, well watered, easily cleared, not subject to overflow, and relatively equal in quality of soil to the ordinary river bottoms.

Less ruins are met here than anywhere else in Western Washington. Much of the soil is well adapted to the raising of wheat; at which large quantities are annually produced.

The special wants of this section to encourage its early settlement and permanent prosperity, are regular steam communications with Port Townsend no less than twice a week. The kind of boat needed for this route is a side wheel steamer, a trifle smaller, yet something like the Libby, only narrower. Then there should be erected a steam flouring mill. Enough wheat is grown to keep one running at present; while new farmers wishing to sell their wheat and get flour in exchange, with their present means of communication, only get about one third as much flour from the sale of ten tons of wheat as they would if a mill was erected in their midst.