The Valley Nobody Surveyed: Pioneers Wait for a Government Pen
A settlers' advocate returns from the surveyor-general with promises and a rapturous account of a hidden valley where poor young farmers are hewing homes out of the forest without so much as a title to their land.
The story, cleaned up
A cleaned-up reading of the newspaper page: spelling and layout repaired, one story lifted off a crowded page. It follows the original closely but it is not a transcription. The original page is below; read it if a detail matters.
It is gratifying to learn that Surveyor-General Cavanaugh has taken up the suggestion of the Tribune promptly and earnestly, and that he will facilitate the survey of the settled but neglected townships of Stevens county. Mr. Edward D. Cowen, who visited the surveyor-general yesterday in the interest of the settlers, received his assurance that every effort would be made to secure some part of the residue of the survey appropriation for the present year. The general agreed that the facts set forth by Mr. Cowen, respecting the condition of the squatters, justified a recommendation that the county receive the immediate consideration of the department.
"It is not appreciated," said Mr. Cowen to a Tribune representative — "this settlers' movement in Stevens county. While the major part of the county is a comparatively unexplored mineral zone, its valleys are among the most beautiful and attractive from a scenic and sanitary point of view, and the richest of farm lands. The defective surveys of the townships in the Colville valley, reinstated some time ago by General Cavanaugh, were of inestimable value to that section, but aside from this assistance to settlement, no action has been taken officially or otherwise to encourage new-comers with the assurance of an early filing. On Beale (formerly Onion) creek, on the north and south and main forks of Deep creek; on Clugston and Mile creeks and around Mud lake during the last year ranch on ranch has been located. These hardy pioneers, seeing that the county could not afford to open roads, have, with the generous assistance of the merchants and citizens of Colville, hewn their way through the forests and over the mountains. As a class they are poor but trained young farmers but recently married, and they are accompanied in their struggles in the wilderness by their wives. It is only fair that some extra effort should be made to enable these determined men to secure early titles to property which is intended to be their permanent homes. There is no trifling or speculation in their endeavors. General Cavanaugh realizes their situation and will do his utmost to place the new settlements beyond the possibilities of squatters' antagonisms and disputes."
"You say the valleys you have mentioned are picturesque?"
"Remarkably so. They are from a quarter to five miles in width and extend thirty and forty miles. Ancient beaver dams, many of them still peopled by vagrant families of that industrious animal, are discovered along the streams, and rich meadows, dotted with lakes of pure water here and there, burst upon the view every few miles. It is in these meadows most of the settlements are made. At either side of the watercourses rise mountains, fashioned in all the varieties of conformation common to mineral bearing lime, and clothed on their north and west sides with forests of fir, tamarack, balsam and various qualities of pine. Wherever a spring bursts forth high up on the mountain side to sink and seek its way to the valley channel by some subterranean avenue, there you will see tracts of cedar equaling in size the middle class cedar of the Sound. On the south and east sides of these ranges great stretches of bunch grass country studded with islands of trees. No better cattle ranges can be found in the state.
"As to the sanitary attractions, no purer water, no more salubrious atmosphere, no sunnier skies can be found in the Rocky mountains. The elevations range from 1,200 to 4,000 feet above sea level. Actual winter is of two months duration only, and the Indian summer is regular. The mountains preserve the valleys against devastating storms and the rigors of the blizzard."
"But how about markets in that far away place?"
"The markets are at home, for that matter, though Colonel Corbin, of the Spokane Falls Northern railroad, is holding out every inducement in the way of rates. The rapid increase of mining developments insures the sale of the products of the garden and the dairy at the best prices. Besides, the Kootenai camps will look to the Stevens county ranchers for vegetables, hay and cereal supplies. One farmer made $1,500 off celery alone this year, while any number of ranchers have secured an income from their yield of potatoes and onions."
“These hardy pioneers, seeing that the county could not afford to open roads, have, with the generous assistance of the merchants and citizens of Colville, hewn their way through the forests and over the mountains.”
The fight here is a timeless one: working people who improved land they did not yet legally own, waiting on a distant government survey before their homes were secure. Rural Washington still wrestles with the legacy of patchwork federal land surveys, and the gap between settlement and clear title remains a live issue wherever people build first and paperwork follows.
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