The 'Deviled Butter' Scandal That Cost Washington Dairies $19,000
A Pennsylvania ruling against rebranded 'renovated' butter prompts Washington dairy men to demand honest labeling for a cheap industrial substitute flooding Seattle markets.
"Process" or "deviled" butter is in a bad way, if the contribution below from the dairy and food commissioner of Pennsylvania is correct. If Pennsylvania can take such action, so can the state of Washington, and if our state dairy commissioner finds that he has the proper authority it is probable that he will do it, too.
Here is the letter of Pennsylvania's dairy commissioner:
"The Pennsylvania department of agriculture has agreed upon the following decisions relative to the manufacture and sale of 'renovated butter':
"Butter placed upon the market that is produced by taking original packing stock and other butter and melting the same, so that the butter oil can be drawn off, mixed with skim milk and rechurned, or if by any similar process there is produced what is commonly known as 'boiled' or 'process' butter, the same before being offered or exposed for sale, shall be plainly labeled 'Renovated Butter.'
"If sold in prints or rolls this label shall be plainly printed in conspicuous letters on the wrappers. If packed in tubs, the brand shall be printed in one-inch letters on the top and sides of the package.
"If exposed for sale, uncovered, a placard containing the label shall be attached to the mass in a manner making it prominent and plain to the purchaser.
"LEVI WELLS, "Dairy and Food Commissioner for the State of Pennsylvania."
What is "deviled" butter doing to the dairy industry of this state? Here are some figures. Since December 1896 less than four cars of same have been received at Seattle, and the price it has commanded has averaged 16 cents per pound. The four cars contained 96,000 pounds, making a total of $15,000. It has ruled in price about 3 cents per pound lower than creamery, a difference of nearly $3,000 lower than the same amount of creamery would bring, making a total loss of $19,000 to our dairy interests. To compel this composition of the refuse and scrapings of the butter dumps to be sold under a clear brand stating its true nature will have the same effect that resulted with oleo. It will not be used; and legitimate dairying will no longer be threatened with the ruinous competition of this great fraud.
“To compel this composition of the refuse and scrapings of the butter dumps to be sold under a clear brand stating its true nature will have the same effect that resulted with oleo.”
In 1898, Washington dairymen wanted 'renovated butter' branded as exactly what it was. The fight echoes today's labeling battles over what can be called butter, milk, or meat, and the recurring tension between cheap industrial food and local producers.
From readers
No comments yet. If you know something about this story — a correction, a family memory, a source — it belongs here.