The Great Rainier Climbing Debate

In speaking of the projected expedition to ascend Mount Rainier and illuminate its summit on the evening of July 4th, the Post-Intelligencer recently stated that General Kautz was among the very few who have made the ascent. The Olympia Standard commented on that statement as follows: 'The Post-Intelligencer is in error. Citizens of this city who knew General Kautz personally, and who resided on the Sound at the time he was here, are ready to assert that he never made the ascent of Rainier.' That may be as it may. It is not our purpose to discuss that point. In 1870, General Stevens, S.F. Van Trump and an English artist named Coleman attempted the ascent, the artist giving out at the snow line. General Stevens and Mr. Van Trump continued to the summit, reaching there too late in the day to make the descent on that day, and were obliged to remain at the top of the mountain till next morning. The Post-Intelligencer was not in error. About two months ago, the editor stood on the verandah of the Tacoma hotel, conversing with General Kautz and gazing at the grand old mountain. The writer asked the General about the rumor that he had made the ascent, and received the reply that he had done so alone in the fifties. He said that a companion who accompanied him gave out and did not reach the summit, but General Kautz ascended to the crater on the very top. When he reached the summit, a gale of wind struck him and took his hat and whirled it out of sight. Owing to the lateness of the hour and the intense cold, he was compelled to turn back almost immediately.